If you’ve tried to visit the British coast in August, you know the drill: circling for a parking space, dodging windbreaks, and the constant hum of crowds. It doesn’t exactly scream “retreat.”
But Northumberland is different. Even in the peak of summer, you can find stretches of the coast that feel entirely empty.
The walk from Howick to Rumbling Kern is one of those spots. It’s a rugged, quiet route that trades tourist traps for sheer cliffs and hidden coves.
Getting Started: Howick to the Shore
Most people know Howick for its Hall and the famous Earl Grey tea connection, but the real draw is the coastline just beyond the village.
Once you leave the houses behind and hit the coastal path, the atmosphere changes instantly. The air is sharp with salt, and the horizon opens up.
The path here isn’t a flat promenade. It’s a grassy, undulating track that follows the low cliffs.
On a clear day, the views are massive, but it’s the smaller details that make it—the wildflowers in the grass, the kestrels overhead, and the absolute lack of traffic noise.
Rumbling Kern: The “Hidden” Beach
A few miles south, you’ll find Rumbling Kern. It used to be a favourite spot for whisky smugglers, and looking at the geography, you can see why.
It’s a small, horseshoe-shaped beach tucked behind high rock walls that keep the wind—and the crowds—out.
Why it works for a quiet day:
- No easy car access: You have to walk to get here. That single fact keeps 90% of the summer visitors away.
- Natural “Soundproofing”: The high basalt cliffs act as a barrier, cutting off the rest of the world and leaving you with just the sound of the waves.
- The “Rumble”: The name comes from the sound the sea makes as it rushes into a deep hole in the rocks. It’s a steady, hypnotic beat that’s better than any meditation app.
Practical Bits for Your Trip
To make sure your day stays stress-free, here is a quick guide to the essentials:
| What to check | Why it matters |
| The Tides | These beaches are best at mid-to-low tide. If the tide is high, the sand disappears. |
| The “Haar” | Keep an eye out for sea mist. It can roll in fast and drop the temperature by 10 degrees in minutes. |
| Connectivity | Phone signal is patchy at best among the cliffs. Download your maps before you set off. |
| The Walk | It’s about a 3-4 mile round trip depending on how much exploring you do. Wear decent boots. |
Where to Stay Nearby
If you want to stay in the area, skip the big hotel hubs. The “Quiet Life” in Northumberland is best experienced in smaller, independent spots:
- Boulmer: A tiny, traditional fishing village just down the coast. It’s one of the few places left that hasn’t been over-developed.
- Shepherd’s Huts: There are several high-quality huts on local farms near the coast. They’re off-grid enough to feel like an escape but have a proper bed and a stove.
- Craster: Famous for kippers, but also great for quiet guesthouses. It’s a perfect base for exploring the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle nearby.
The Reality of the Quiet Life
In Northumberland, you don’t need a “VIP” pass to get away from people; you just need to walk for twenty minutes.
The stretch between Howick and Rumbling Kern is a reminder that even in a busy country, you can still find a corner of the world where it’s just you, the rocks, and the North Sea.
Getting There: Your Practical Guide
Finding the “quiet life” shouldn’t involve a stressful commute. Here is the best way to reach the start of the walk at Howick and find your way to Rumbling Kern.
By Car
Howick is roughly a 15-minute drive from the market town of Alnwick.
- Parking: There is a small, informal parking area near the edge of the Howick Hall estate (follow signs for the “Coastal Path”). It rarely fills up, but arriving before 10:00 am in August ensures a spot.
- The Route: From the parking area, follow the signposted footpath towards the sea. You’ll hit the main Northumberland Coast Path within five minutes. Turn right (south) to head towards Rumbling Kern.
By Public Transport
If you prefer to leave the car behind, the Northumberland coast is surprisingly well-connected by the “Arriva Coastliner” buses.
- The Bus: Look for the X18 service, which runs between Newcastle and Berwick.
- The Stop: Get off at Howick Village or the nearby Craster (if you fancy a longer 3-mile walk down to the Kern).
- Pro Tip: Check the Traveline North East app before you set off, as coastal schedules can shift slightly during the summer season.
The Walk to Rumbling Kern
- Distance: Approximately 1.5 miles each way from Howick.
- Terrain: Mostly grassy paths and some rocky uneven ground near the cove itself. Sturdy walking shoes or boots are highly recommended, especially if the grass is damp with morning dew or sea mist.
- Facilities: This is a “wild” walk. There are no toilets or cafes at Rumbling Kern. The nearest facilities are back in Howick or further south in the village of Boulmer.
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